Tirbuson

Konstantinoupoleos is the ever-growing hot spot for Athens’ restaurant and bar scene. Most of the places down here are characterized by their casual, easy approach to food, their simple menus, their equal emphasis on drinking and eating, their younger (than me) crowd. Tirbouson shares all these descriptions and it’s a place I would easily return to just because it’s relaxing and inexpensive, with a competent menu and professional service. I also happen to like trains, and the night we went the tracks back and forth toward Stathmos Larissi were busy with cargo and passenger trains chugging along noisily. It was fun to watch.

The dining room is small and contemporary, with a large chandelier made up of upside down wine bottles. Lights play a part in the red and white décor. The deck outside is pretty spacious for such an urban locale. “Tablecloths” are a large piece of parchment printed with the wine list. On this, the first hot night of the season, we opted for a couple of those great organic Piraiki beers, which are fruity and delicious.

The menu is easy and not terribly original. Actually, the restaurant hound in me saw more than a few borrowed ideas from at least one chefs, Nina Ismirnoglou, for whom the owner worked for a while. Marinated raw zucchini is one such borrowed dish. It was perfectly ok but lacking in that touch that marks the difference between fine and good. The slices were a tad too thick and jumbled together in a deep bowl, which isn’t the best choice for presenting a carpaccio style dish. Parmesan and pine nuts add body to the zucchini. The eggplant rollups stuffed with haloumi didn’t really work, first because the cheese got hard but more importantly because the eggplant itself was tough. But the owner came over to our table, apologized, and didn’t charge us for the dish. That’s good service. The waiters also knew the food, something too often sorely lacking in other Athenian restaurants.

The black eyed bean salad with spinach and finocchio was also ok. Black eyed peas are so satisfying on their own, but the salad needed some spark, maybe a little chile-driven heat. The mussels steamed with leeks, scallions, finocchio and white wine were really fresh and very tasty.

What I liked most about Tirbouson, besides the name and the trains, is the friendly, informed service. The waiter steered us away from too much food, suggested things that worked, and generally knew what he was selling. With a little more originality on the menu, Tirbouson would fly.

Cuisine: Greek taverna fare

Athens Area: Downtown Athens, Keramikos

Decor: Hip, happening, funky

Service: Friendly, knowledgeable

Wine List: Greek, Competent

Prices: 25-40 euro per person

Address: 104 Konstantinoupoleos str., Keramikos, Athens, Tel: 2103410107