Bistro Baxevannis

I guess it’s a symptom of the times when one of Greece’s most internationally known chefs downgrades from haute cuisine to paysanne cuisine, especially in the form of the most popular food of all, grilled, skewered meats, pita bread and mezedes. When he does it with flair, thank God, there’s a sense of hope amidst all the insanity this country has seen in the last few weeks. The chef is Yiannis Baxevannis and the place is his flagship restaurant right in the heart of Syntagma, Bistrot Baxevannis. What started out as a very high-end concept in a landmark building with a prix fixe menu that hovered close to 90 euro before even the first sip of wine is now totally reinvented. The Ergastiri (a la Robuchon) became a bistro overnight. The food, a casual blend of skewered meats, spicy dips, the chef’s great way with beans and more, is excellent, especially when one takes into account the 21 euro price tag (before wine). But there are also daily specials, mainly at lunch, in which the chef expands on the themes that have always interested him, especially vegetable and bean cookery and dishes culled from the vast repertoire of Greece’s country kitchen. His main sous chef, Thanassis Roussos, executes with artistry. The Bistro menu is not exactly new. Baxevannis and his staff execute the same menu at Prassinos Lofos in Alimo, but here, under the chef’s almost daily presence in the kitchen, the food is noticeably better. The skewers are all really good. Tender cuts of chicken and pork, for example, come served over a plate-sized piece of Baxevannis own pita bread (made tender with the addition of banana pulp, from what he told us). The waiter chops and mixes a spicy side dish right at the table. Of all the mezedes brought out and lined up like little soldiers, the best is the hummus, a delicious, velvety puree of chick peas and spices that is far superior to what is served in most of the Middle Easter restaurants in town. After a parade of various meats and mezedes, the finale ends on a carnivorous overindulgence: skewered pork and prunes. By the time this arrived I honestly could only manage a small bite. The first skewers are tastier. The galaktoboureko with its butter French twist is worth saving space for. I hope Bistro does well. We like the civilized atmosphere and relative quiet. The design could stand a little excitement, but maybe there’s enough just down the street at Syntagma Square for the moment.

Cuisine: Kebabs and other carnivorous classics by well-known chef Yannis Baxevannis

Athens Area: Downtown, Syntagma

Decor: A little dull, white walls, maroon overtones

Service: Good

Wine list: Good, Greek

Prices: Prix Fixe at 23 euro w/o wine

Address: 48 Nikis str., Plaka, Athens, Tel.: 210-32 22 839.