Enoteca

Enoteca

Cuisine: Italian and Mediterranean classics meant to go with the wines
Athens Area: northern suburbs
Decor: cozy, elegant, with antiques and wine paraphernalia, dining area divided in small rooms, reminiscent of Italy
Service: friendly and discreet
Wine List: formidable with choices for every taste and budget
Prices: 35 euro and up, really depending on what you drink
Address: 113, Pendelis Ave., Halandri, tel. 210-6890238

Is the test of success the fast, easy glamour that comes with popular fly-by-night places, or is it the standard bearers that hold up in good times and bad, that are consistent even if a little predictable? I vote for the second as a measure of success, knowing full well that restaurants that manage to stay in business with a steady clientele and a roster of fans that have grown over the years like good friends are a rare breed. Enoteca is definitely in this second category.

The space is cozy and intimate, with antiques and wine paraphernalia everywhere. Dining takes place in several small rooms, some of which are reserved for private parties. The whole place seems like it belongs not in the foothills of Pendeli but in the foothills of Piemonte. In fact, Kostas Touloumtzis did own a restaurant in northern Italy for 15 years before settling back here. He first opened Enoteca in another nearby location in 1998.

It had been a few years since my last visit and I was relieved to see that Kostas Touloumtzis, one of the major figures in the Greek wine world over the last 15 years (and president of the Sommelier’s Association), has maintained his high standards and delicious, simple cuisine. Most menu items were as I had remembered them: a terrine of eggplant and mozzarella was homey, tasty, and well-presented, without fanfare but with a certain elegance. Dishes like the tagliata of duck (and one of beef, too) are easy fare for meatlovers. The pasta and risotto are some of the best around: gnocchi with gorgonzola, a classic Italian dish, is prepared simply and is very good. It might be a little old fashioned, but it still hits a certain place in this gastronomic heart! Ditto on the risotto with porcini and singlino Manis and the pasta with porcini and sausage. We had a lovely meal here, drank a Papaioannou Pinot Noir and enjoyed the quiet, civilized, warm atmosphere of this all time classic spot in Halandri.