Cookounari

The name, Pine Nut in Greek, is cute, the location refreshingly off the radar screen of the masses (i.e. Psyrri, Glyfada, etc.) and the food surprisingly good. Cookounari, a small, new casual restaurant off a small plateia in the northern suburb of N. Erythrea is one of a growing number of eateries that aim to be both reasonably priced and interesting. In this case, the interest comes from the Italian cadence of the menu, which is executed by an Italian chef named Astrid Sperantza.

The restaurant was a little rough around the edges when we went—a sophisticated menu offset by a relatively unsophisticated waitstaff who was still learning on the job. But they were polite and enthusiastic, communicating a sense of excitement that was a nice change from typical dour-faced waitstaff in so many of this city’s eateries.

I liked the fact that chef Astrid has filled her menu with simple, easy choices but with not much that is easily found elsewhere. She takes some inspiration from the traditions of her adopted country, in dishes like very Greek keftedakia made with very unGreek beef cheeks, served in a basil sauce. Octopus, so much a part of our own culinary vernacular, is here cooked with an ancient variety of potatoes, which happen to be even darker and more purple than the octopus. Visually, the salad needed something to brighten it up, but the flavor was there, earthy and satisfying.

Pasta is the thing to come here for, both because the prices are so accessible and also because the pasta is a break from the typical selection in other trattorias around town. Sure, there are classics, like rigatoni alla Amatriciana. But there are innovative dishes, too, and those beef cheeks smiled in one of them, braised and married with a hard wheat pasta that looked a little like rigatoni. Unfortunately, the day we went the kitchen was out of one of the classic greats of Italian cooking, papardelle with rabbit ragout. The ravioli stuffed with shrimp that I ordered as a replacement was delicate and elegant, served in a bisque like sauce. We loved the fusilli with chewy slices of avgotaraho (botargo) and tomato confit, too.

Pasta evaders might find solace in some of the protein on Cookounari’s menu, including a T-bone, ribeye, bifteki, and grilled chicken breast. But these are options for the faint of heart and plain of taste. The flare is in the other stuff.

The desserts had a share of finesse, too. The yogurt cream crumble with fresh fruits and the chocolate cake with a strong hint of rosemary were delicious. All time favorites like tiramisu are well executed. The crème brûlée with grappa sorbet was a little disjointed but interesting.

I like this trend. I like going to reasonably priced restaurants that don’t aim to be the next BIG THING, where the food has some flair and honesty and the whole endeavor seems real and accessible to ordinary folks who, even in these hard times, still like to eat out.

Cuisine: Trattoria fare with flair
Athens Area: Northern suburbs
Decor-Atmosphere: Easy going casual trattoria off the radar screen of the masses
Service: Still learning
Wine List: Interesting
Prices: 30-35 per person without wine
Address: 28th Oktovriou Square (ex Tsakpini Square), Nea Erithrea, tel. 2108002025