Filitsa

Here in Ikaria, the opening of a new taverna is a major social event, especially if the opening is in mid July, when the Ikarians from Athens and beyond have begun to descend on the island, still restless with urban energy. Filitsa’s was the opening of the season here in Raches, on the northern side of Ikaria.

Located in Karidies – or Karies, as it’s pronounced—Filitsa’s is the result of a father-son team of professional chefs (the father retired after a 30-year career at the Intercontinental; the son runs two restaurants, in Athens and in the local port of Armenistis). Karidies is a couple of kilometers further up the mountain from Christos, the village of all-night fame. We were there on one of those recent 40-degree searingly hot days, but here in northern Ikaria, and especially in Karies, the nights are cool and comfortable. The place is appointed with local objects d’art! Amazing sandstone “sculptures,” carved by the wind into wavy, hole-ridden pieces of abstract art, act like walls closing off the front garden. A thatched roof covering provides shelter. The rest is fairly simple. The family hopes to run this place even during the isolated months of the long Ikarian winter and are in the midst of setting up a bakaliko in the space, too.

The food is a combination of grilled meats and good souvlaki, and more modern offerings that have a certain urbane flair without going too over the top for standards of this low-key, casual island. We tried a cheese pie starter wrapped like dolmades in kataifi pastry and served with some kind of berry fruit sauce. That was just about the most daring dish. The fried zucchini, cut not into rounds but lengthwise almost like thin fingers, is a house specialty. The fava, with or without seafood, is smooth and competent.

The pasta dishes are the mainstay of the menu at Filitsa’s and they are all pretty good. My personal favorite is the spaghetti with arugula and garlic. This is not, by any stretch of the imagination, an Ikarian specialty, but the pleasantly bitter taste of the roka married with the strength of the sautéed garlic makes for a great combination. The Carbonara is rich with cream and bacon, not exactly a rigorously authentic version but tasty nonetheless. The Yiouvetsi was a winner for all who ordered it, a filling portion of slow cooked lamb in tomato sauce and a heaping portion of orzo to go with it.

Filitsa’s is a bit of a trek if you’re staying along the northern coast of Ikaria, but it’s a nice change from the throngs of people in Christos any night of the week (after 11 pm, that is!) and from the sometimes psychologically distant environs of Armenistis.

Cuisine: Greek and local specialties as well as a big array of pasta dishes

Area: North-eastern Aegean, Ikaria island Decor-Atmosphere: simple yard with some local color

Service: still needs smoothing out

Wine List: Local, local, local and beer
Prices: 15-20 euro per person
Address: Karidies (Karies), Christos, Rahes, Ikaria